So Egypt is rather exciting, but so so different from Tanzania. You can go out at night and there are lights everywhere. It's really developed and really, really big. I guess I just didn't have that idea in my head before arrival. I really wish I spoke a bit of Arabic, but English generally works in most places if you keep it slow and simple. I don't have too much time, so I'll just give a few brief ideas of what I've been up to since arrival.
Saturday afternoon we left our hotel to go to the other hotel where we were to meet our tour. We got there and that afternoon we went to check out the big marketplace in Cairo. It was really cool - lots of old antiquities on sale and jewelry and all kinds of things. It's almost all men in the marketplace, but there are also tons of tourists. Andrew and I heard some great comments like "How can I take your money?" "You are a very lucky man" "I'll give you six camels for her, six whole camels" and "How much for your unmarried sister?"
That night we just went out for dinner and then settled in at the hotel. Sunday morning was the Pyramids and the Sphinx! Quite exciting! Really they are just amazing feats of architecture. We got to go inside of one, but I think I nearly fainted because of the overwhelming heat. After visiting those sites we went to see the Egyptian Museum which holds so many wonderful artifacts, but it is rather overwhelming and also un-air-conditioned. I was sweating bullets in the 100-something degree, 90% humidity. Most of the women here wear at least a head covering, but many also wear the full black hijab and the face cover. I cannot understand how they survive this heat in that clothing! I wish we had more time here so I could perhaps have a chance to really talk to some people and get to know more about the culture rather than just running through.
We're in Aswan now - we traveled by train last night for 14 hours. Tonight we stay in a hotel and then the next night we get on the sail boat to go down the Nile. I just got back from riding a camel out in the desert - fun, but so hot! Hopefully the pictures came out well! This afternoon we are going to head to another museum and then go to see a sound and light show at night in Philae Temple.
The people are nice, but you don't really get to talk to many - it's very much a quick look at the places, see the tour spots and get out, but it's still interesting and fun. Hope summer in the states is going well! I miss everyone and will be happy to see you soon!
Tuesday, July 31, 2007
Sunday, July 29, 2007
Arrival in Cairo
So right now I'm actually out of Tanzania and have just arrived in Cairo last night. We almost got detained in Tanzania for being illegal residents, but we managed to make it out after a bit of a screaming match. Apparently our stay had expired after one month and we didn't apply for the proper study permit. I think we'll be having a chat with someone in OIP about our near jailing. But it's okay - I loved staying in TZ and I can't believe it's over, but I am also just really happy and excited to have arrived in Egypt. It's so different from TZ and I think seeing the contrasts will make it ever more interesting.
We flew "business class" on Ethiopian Air and although my expectations were not too high, it was great - the big comfy seats up front in the special section, champagne before take-off and great food. We arrived in Cairo at 3am so I haven't really seen much yet. They have really, really good road systems but then beyond that it's a desert. It's incredibly hot unfortunately - something around 100 degrees and we have to leave soon and head out into the city. We're going downtown today to see the big markets and tomorrow will be the pyramids! I'm not sure if I'll be able to write again while here, so if I can't, I'll talk to you all in August!
We flew "business class" on Ethiopian Air and although my expectations were not too high, it was great - the big comfy seats up front in the special section, champagne before take-off and great food. We arrived in Cairo at 3am so I haven't really seen much yet. They have really, really good road systems but then beyond that it's a desert. It's incredibly hot unfortunately - something around 100 degrees and we have to leave soon and head out into the city. We're going downtown today to see the big markets and tomorrow will be the pyramids! I'm not sure if I'll be able to write again while here, so if I can't, I'll talk to you all in August!
Tuesday, July 24, 2007
I met the president of Tanzania! (and safari was awesome)
So I had quite a great weekend. I'll start with saying that I got to meet President Kikwete out in the Serengeti, but I'll explain the details later as I go.
We left Friday morning and headed out in our awesome Safari cars (with a pop-top and all so we could look at the animals as we're driving). It took a bit to get there, but we went in along the Western Corridor of the Serengeti and saw lots of animals right from the beginning. Some of them we saw later, but just so you get an idea of what is out here:
- Nguru (Wildebeests)
- Punda Milia (Zebra)
- Simba (Lions)
- Duma (Cheetah)
- Tembo (Elephants)
- Twiga (Giraffe)
- Mtambuni (Monkeys)
- Fici (Hyena)
- Kiboko (Hippos)
- Mbuni (Ostrich)
- Digidigi (Dik-dik, which is a cute little furry animal about the size of a medium-sized dog)
A few other really pretty birds and some more normal things like cattle and mules were also around. They only animal of the "Big Five" that we missed were the Rhinos, but our ecology teacher said it wasn't their fault since they are almost extinct. Poor things. I bought some really cool stickers at the Visitor's Centers saying "I <3 Rhinos" and "I've visited the Serengeti!" I also have some super cool pictures - especially of the lions and the baby baboons!
The first two nights of our journey we went ruggid and camped out. In our Safari cars we had with us our drivers and also two cooks who came along to prepare our food at the camp sites. They also brought the tents and the tables that we set up. We drove on Safari all day Friday and arrived just at sunset. They guys put up the tents (they weren't quite the kind you buy at Dick's, but real canvas ones) and we set up the table so we could eat dinner. There was a little cooking area for the cooks since this was one of the public camp sites and they made us some amazing food. I think I ate better on safari then I have been at the university!
Apparently, we lucked out because it seems that they recently refurbished the bathroom facilities. They were nice little mud hut things on the side of camp. They were of course "squatters/long drops" but I am already pretty used to those. I didn't shower for the first three days of safari, but no one did, so we probably all smelled collectively a little rank. What was surprising was the temperature. It's the winter/dry season here so it gets super cold at night. I was wearing sweat pants and a hoodie and big wool socks under a really thick sleeping bag to stay warm and even throughout the morning you really needed a sweater, so we didn't sweat too much at least. =)
Saturday was more safari and this was the day we got to meet the president. We're driving along just enjoying the view of the vast grassland and suddenly there is a big caravan heading towards us. We had heard the president was out on the Serengeti for the weekend, but only luck would have it that he happened to get a busted tire just as we were passing! The caravan stops and out pops lots of official looking people and Kikwete himself for a short stretch. We were all standing up looking through the pop-top of the car. Our ecology professor saw someone she knew in the caravan from her ecology work so she was brave and went out to talk with him. Kikwete was intrigued so he went over to talk to her also. She explained how she was studying the elephants in the area and that we were students from America. He looked at us and yells "come on down" so we all hopped out of the safari cars and ran over. We got to shake his hand and introduce ourselves and have a little chat while his car was being fixed. Our teacher got to tell him about the studies she was doing and some of the problems with the local elephants. It was so cool! One of the guys there even took our cameras and we all got pictures with him talking to us as a group. Who knew we'd get to talk to the President of Tanzania while we were on safari!
We camped again Saturday night after we went to a local luxury lodge to watch the sunset and have a drink. Sunday morning we got our early because we were leaving the Serengeti to go to the Ngorongoro crater area. The crater is what is left of a volcano which exploded thousands of years ago. On the way we stopped at the "Olduvai Gorge" where they have been carrying out excavations that are helping to show the path of human evolution and the existence of humans there millions of years ago. The crater is just beautiful and we took a long drive down after taking pictures of the view and buying jewelry from the local Masai people who live there. There are lots of animals that live inside the crater and the ecosystem was really different from that on the outside. We got to see a lion who was totally showing off and posing for the camera and even started rubbing up against one safari car's tires - great pic!
On Sunday we we out to stay the night at a hostel. It seemed like luxury accommodations after our long weekend - there was even hot running water and a fire place to keep us warm. My bathroom was unfortunately being invaded by roaches, but Leslie, my roommate, was not as fearful as I, and put them under a bucket for me. I am still nonetheless surprised by my calmness and my ability to sleep through the night there! I am getting better! The hostel was built on this local coffee plantation which was built in the 1920s by some German settlers. I bought some of the coffee beans which they have apparently been selling to Starbucks as one of their premier coffees. I think I got quite the deal.
Monday was basically just a long drive home, but we did get an exciting cheetah siting mid-day and had a good time nonetheless. Now I'm back in Mwanza and I'll actually be leaving here in just two days. We have a flight out Thursday morning and on Saturday I have my flight out of Dar. I can't believe how quickly it is coming to an end, but I'm also really excited about Egypt! I had a great weekend and am enjoying myself so much. I can't wait to show everyone my great pictures!
Leave me comments/email me! Miss you all!
We left Friday morning and headed out in our awesome Safari cars (with a pop-top and all so we could look at the animals as we're driving). It took a bit to get there, but we went in along the Western Corridor of the Serengeti and saw lots of animals right from the beginning. Some of them we saw later, but just so you get an idea of what is out here:
- Nguru (Wildebeests)
- Punda Milia (Zebra)
- Simba (Lions)
- Duma (Cheetah)
- Tembo (Elephants)
- Twiga (Giraffe)
- Mtambuni (Monkeys)
- Fici (Hyena)
- Kiboko (Hippos)
- Mbuni (Ostrich)
- Digidigi (Dik-dik, which is a cute little furry animal about the size of a medium-sized dog)
A few other really pretty birds and some more normal things like cattle and mules were also around. They only animal of the "Big Five" that we missed were the Rhinos, but our ecology teacher said it wasn't their fault since they are almost extinct. Poor things. I bought some really cool stickers at the Visitor's Centers saying "I <3 Rhinos" and "I've visited the Serengeti!" I also have some super cool pictures - especially of the lions and the baby baboons!
The first two nights of our journey we went ruggid and camped out. In our Safari cars we had with us our drivers and also two cooks who came along to prepare our food at the camp sites. They also brought the tents and the tables that we set up. We drove on Safari all day Friday and arrived just at sunset. They guys put up the tents (they weren't quite the kind you buy at Dick's, but real canvas ones) and we set up the table so we could eat dinner. There was a little cooking area for the cooks since this was one of the public camp sites and they made us some amazing food. I think I ate better on safari then I have been at the university!
Apparently, we lucked out because it seems that they recently refurbished the bathroom facilities. They were nice little mud hut things on the side of camp. They were of course "squatters/long drops" but I am already pretty used to those. I didn't shower for the first three days of safari, but no one did, so we probably all smelled collectively a little rank. What was surprising was the temperature. It's the winter/dry season here so it gets super cold at night. I was wearing sweat pants and a hoodie and big wool socks under a really thick sleeping bag to stay warm and even throughout the morning you really needed a sweater, so we didn't sweat too much at least. =)
Saturday was more safari and this was the day we got to meet the president. We're driving along just enjoying the view of the vast grassland and suddenly there is a big caravan heading towards us. We had heard the president was out on the Serengeti for the weekend, but only luck would have it that he happened to get a busted tire just as we were passing! The caravan stops and out pops lots of official looking people and Kikwete himself for a short stretch. We were all standing up looking through the pop-top of the car. Our ecology professor saw someone she knew in the caravan from her ecology work so she was brave and went out to talk with him. Kikwete was intrigued so he went over to talk to her also. She explained how she was studying the elephants in the area and that we were students from America. He looked at us and yells "come on down" so we all hopped out of the safari cars and ran over. We got to shake his hand and introduce ourselves and have a little chat while his car was being fixed. Our teacher got to tell him about the studies she was doing and some of the problems with the local elephants. It was so cool! One of the guys there even took our cameras and we all got pictures with him talking to us as a group. Who knew we'd get to talk to the President of Tanzania while we were on safari!
We camped again Saturday night after we went to a local luxury lodge to watch the sunset and have a drink. Sunday morning we got our early because we were leaving the Serengeti to go to the Ngorongoro crater area. The crater is what is left of a volcano which exploded thousands of years ago. On the way we stopped at the "Olduvai Gorge" where they have been carrying out excavations that are helping to show the path of human evolution and the existence of humans there millions of years ago. The crater is just beautiful and we took a long drive down after taking pictures of the view and buying jewelry from the local Masai people who live there. There are lots of animals that live inside the crater and the ecosystem was really different from that on the outside. We got to see a lion who was totally showing off and posing for the camera and even started rubbing up against one safari car's tires - great pic!
On Sunday we we out to stay the night at a hostel. It seemed like luxury accommodations after our long weekend - there was even hot running water and a fire place to keep us warm. My bathroom was unfortunately being invaded by roaches, but Leslie, my roommate, was not as fearful as I, and put them under a bucket for me. I am still nonetheless surprised by my calmness and my ability to sleep through the night there! I am getting better! The hostel was built on this local coffee plantation which was built in the 1920s by some German settlers. I bought some of the coffee beans which they have apparently been selling to Starbucks as one of their premier coffees. I think I got quite the deal.
Monday was basically just a long drive home, but we did get an exciting cheetah siting mid-day and had a good time nonetheless. Now I'm back in Mwanza and I'll actually be leaving here in just two days. We have a flight out Thursday morning and on Saturday I have my flight out of Dar. I can't believe how quickly it is coming to an end, but I'm also really excited about Egypt! I had a great weekend and am enjoying myself so much. I can't wait to show everyone my great pictures!
Leave me comments/email me! Miss you all!
Thursday, July 19, 2007
Serengeti on the horizon
We're leaving tomorrow morning for the Serengeti and to see the Ngorongoro Crater. We'll be out camping for two nights so I'm hoping that the hyenas won't eat me. =) Our friend Hannah who was with us on our program actually became a lot sicker over the last week (an allergic reaction to the malaria medication) so she is on a flight back home today and we're all pretty sad. Nonetheless, our weekend should be a lot of fun. Apparently they sell bumper stickers there so I'm looking to pick up some of those. For example - "I <3 Wildebeests."
The last few days we've just been on campus a lot - we had a test this morning for our class and we have a paper to write for our class on TZ government - so nothing too exciting. That will all be over soon and then I have a bit more time to just sit back and relax before coming home. I'm sure I'll have lots of fun things to talk about when I get back so look for an entry early next week. =)
The last few days we've just been on campus a lot - we had a test this morning for our class and we have a paper to write for our class on TZ government - so nothing too exciting. That will all be over soon and then I have a bit more time to just sit back and relax before coming home. I'm sure I'll have lots of fun things to talk about when I get back so look for an entry early next week. =)
Monday, July 16, 2007
Natural Beauty
The last two nights I think I've seen the most beautiful sunsets I have ever witnessed. The first was from a beach on Lake Victoria. My friends and I sat enjoying a local Tanzanian beer (Safari) while the sun fell before us down into the depths of the lake in the most brilliant shades of orange and red that you can imagine. We had some odd company, a local Afrikaner man from South Africa (which is a whole 'nother story), but it was a spectacular experience nonetheless.
Last night we took a boat ride out onto the lake to see the sunset once again. We coasted along between some of the islands and rock formations on the lake to take in our surroundings. Once again the sun fell with nothing to impede our view of this amazing natural occurance. I only hope I can see another sunset like this before leaving Mwanza. I've certainly got some great pictures, but no pictures or words can quite capture the beauty of the fading sun on Lake Victoria.
Last night we took a boat ride out onto the lake to see the sunset once again. We coasted along between some of the islands and rock formations on the lake to take in our surroundings. Once again the sun fell with nothing to impede our view of this amazing natural occurance. I only hope I can see another sunset like this before leaving Mwanza. I've certainly got some great pictures, but no pictures or words can quite capture the beauty of the fading sun on Lake Victoria.
Friday, July 13, 2007
Kufanya kazi "Kivulini" (working at "Kivulini")
Over the last three days I spent a lot of time working with the NGO I am assigned at and it has been great. Two days ago (on Thursday) we went out to a village where this organization is working with a youth group there to reduce human trafficking related to child domestic workers. They quickly realized that before they could implement that kind of program, they needed to ensure food security and some other basic needs for these people. They've been doing these kinds of things with them and it is proving productive. But let me just start from the beginning of that day.
Lena and I left around 10am and we got in a car with three of the men who work at Kivulini, only one of whom we actually knew. There was a rather long car ride out to the village - about 20 minutes on actual road and then 40 minutes or so on dirt road/walking paths that were creatively made into roads. The ride out was truly beautiful - the village goes all along the coast of Lake Victoria and is situated among some beautiful Savannah and rock formations. We stopped first at two different village leader's offices to drop off some posters that they will distribute to community members to teach about domestic violence and family relationships. After that we went to the home of one of the families that is a part of the youth group. They invited us in and asked us to sit on their traditional chairs, which happen to raise your butt only about 10 inches above the ground. Here we are with a bunch of people we don't know out in the middle of rural Tanzania. As we sat there rather awkwardly, chickens clucked all around us, just inches away, followed by their little chicks. The little ones were just adorable, but the big roosters instilled some fear in me as they got closer and closer.
After stopping here we then went to check out the place where Kivulini is helping this youth group plant some tomatoes to sell. Two of the men joined us in our crowed little SUV by sitting in the trunk. I just wish we had a picture of this. We drove a bit and then walked about a mile to the plot of land the youth group purchased. It was really close to the lake and the view was breathtaking. I took some pictures, saw some monkeys(!), and generally tired myself out in the mid-day sun. We got back to the car and drove to the home of one of the men who was in the trunk where his wife made us lunch. Here we also sat on the traditional seats just inches off of the floor around a table about a foot high. I've never felt as "local" as I did then. It was a dish I've never had before, something more traditional which they eat in the villages, but it was surprisingly good despite its appearance. She also made tea and gave us some of the leaves from her garden so we could make it for ourselves back at our hostel.
We went back to the original home we stopped at to pick up tomatoes, but also apparently to eat again. They made us ugali with cassava, a traditional swahili dish, and some boiled chicken. Lena and I got the gizzard since we were their very special guests. Luckily I know how to say "I am already full!" so I didn't get stuck eating that like Lena did! We stopped and bought vegetables and things on the way home and I think I caused quite a scene. I can't imagine a lot of wazungus go out into the village there too often. After a long ride back home Lena and I definitely had to pinch each other wondering if we really did just spend an afternoon in an African village. Getting to see the different sides of TZ has definitely been a highlight of being in Mwanza.
Yesterday and today Lena and I were working on another project with the advocacy department of Kivulini. They are setting up debates/dialogs for next week in which local students will take some time to talk about domestic violence and HIV/AIDS. In addition to this, Kivulini is working with a group of girls at a nearby all girls school to put together a school magazine that features gender issues and the girls opinions' on problems in their community. This morning we went for a skill building and organizational meeting to help the girls figure out what issues they would like to cover and to get them started on writing articles and putting together the magazine. These girls are so inspirational and so much fun! I had such a great time just talking to them and hearing from them what they think about things like women in education, romance in school, prostitution and so on and so on. They were young, but yet so poised and confident in themselves. I talked a lot to Helen who I promised I would write to so we could become pen-pals after I leave. I already can't wait to go back and spend some more time with them!
Anyway, working at the NGO is definitely making Mwanza worth while, I just wish we could have more time here or that we could have started earlier so I could feel like I was actually doing something more substantial. Nonetheless I know even just this magazine can make a big difference in these girls lives. They were so excited and so animated about getting involved. TZ definitely needs more women to stand up and take a lead in their communities and deal with the really tough issues many women still face in the form of discrimination and abuse.
So away from the NGO, we were supposed to go on a trip this weekend to an island on Lake Victoria, but unfortunately our trip was canceled due to excessive sickness within our group. Callan is still recovering from malaria and both Andrew and Hannah have both now been diagnosed. Andrew had a 102 degree fever! They don't look so hot, the poor things. Leslie hasn't been feeling well either, but she doesn't have malaria as far as we know. I'm just hoping it won't be catching up with me next!
We've got one more normal week of classes before we go on safari to the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater next weekend. Time is passing really quickly and I wish we had more of a chance to work with the girls at the school. I can't believe I've already been here for 6 weeks and I'll be leaving in just 13 days!
We met a new friend who works at Kivulini and is from Mwanza, but goes to school at Boston University. We're going to go hang out with her for the afternoon and hopefully our idle time will pass quickly!
Leave me a message! I miss you all! (almost as much as I miss American and Polish food!)
Lena and I left around 10am and we got in a car with three of the men who work at Kivulini, only one of whom we actually knew. There was a rather long car ride out to the village - about 20 minutes on actual road and then 40 minutes or so on dirt road/walking paths that were creatively made into roads. The ride out was truly beautiful - the village goes all along the coast of Lake Victoria and is situated among some beautiful Savannah and rock formations. We stopped first at two different village leader's offices to drop off some posters that they will distribute to community members to teach about domestic violence and family relationships. After that we went to the home of one of the families that is a part of the youth group. They invited us in and asked us to sit on their traditional chairs, which happen to raise your butt only about 10 inches above the ground. Here we are with a bunch of people we don't know out in the middle of rural Tanzania. As we sat there rather awkwardly, chickens clucked all around us, just inches away, followed by their little chicks. The little ones were just adorable, but the big roosters instilled some fear in me as they got closer and closer.
After stopping here we then went to check out the place where Kivulini is helping this youth group plant some tomatoes to sell. Two of the men joined us in our crowed little SUV by sitting in the trunk. I just wish we had a picture of this. We drove a bit and then walked about a mile to the plot of land the youth group purchased. It was really close to the lake and the view was breathtaking. I took some pictures, saw some monkeys(!), and generally tired myself out in the mid-day sun. We got back to the car and drove to the home of one of the men who was in the trunk where his wife made us lunch. Here we also sat on the traditional seats just inches off of the floor around a table about a foot high. I've never felt as "local" as I did then. It was a dish I've never had before, something more traditional which they eat in the villages, but it was surprisingly good despite its appearance. She also made tea and gave us some of the leaves from her garden so we could make it for ourselves back at our hostel.
We went back to the original home we stopped at to pick up tomatoes, but also apparently to eat again. They made us ugali with cassava, a traditional swahili dish, and some boiled chicken. Lena and I got the gizzard since we were their very special guests. Luckily I know how to say "I am already full!" so I didn't get stuck eating that like Lena did! We stopped and bought vegetables and things on the way home and I think I caused quite a scene. I can't imagine a lot of wazungus go out into the village there too often. After a long ride back home Lena and I definitely had to pinch each other wondering if we really did just spend an afternoon in an African village. Getting to see the different sides of TZ has definitely been a highlight of being in Mwanza.
Yesterday and today Lena and I were working on another project with the advocacy department of Kivulini. They are setting up debates/dialogs for next week in which local students will take some time to talk about domestic violence and HIV/AIDS. In addition to this, Kivulini is working with a group of girls at a nearby all girls school to put together a school magazine that features gender issues and the girls opinions' on problems in their community. This morning we went for a skill building and organizational meeting to help the girls figure out what issues they would like to cover and to get them started on writing articles and putting together the magazine. These girls are so inspirational and so much fun! I had such a great time just talking to them and hearing from them what they think about things like women in education, romance in school, prostitution and so on and so on. They were young, but yet so poised and confident in themselves. I talked a lot to Helen who I promised I would write to so we could become pen-pals after I leave. I already can't wait to go back and spend some more time with them!
Anyway, working at the NGO is definitely making Mwanza worth while, I just wish we could have more time here or that we could have started earlier so I could feel like I was actually doing something more substantial. Nonetheless I know even just this magazine can make a big difference in these girls lives. They were so excited and so animated about getting involved. TZ definitely needs more women to stand up and take a lead in their communities and deal with the really tough issues many women still face in the form of discrimination and abuse.
So away from the NGO, we were supposed to go on a trip this weekend to an island on Lake Victoria, but unfortunately our trip was canceled due to excessive sickness within our group. Callan is still recovering from malaria and both Andrew and Hannah have both now been diagnosed. Andrew had a 102 degree fever! They don't look so hot, the poor things. Leslie hasn't been feeling well either, but she doesn't have malaria as far as we know. I'm just hoping it won't be catching up with me next!
We've got one more normal week of classes before we go on safari to the Serengeti and the Ngorongoro Crater next weekend. Time is passing really quickly and I wish we had more of a chance to work with the girls at the school. I can't believe I've already been here for 6 weeks and I'll be leaving in just 13 days!
We met a new friend who works at Kivulini and is from Mwanza, but goes to school at Boston University. We're going to go hang out with her for the afternoon and hopefully our idle time will pass quickly!
Leave me a message! I miss you all! (almost as much as I miss American and Polish food!)
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
nyoka nyoka...
So our first weekend has passed and there were some fun moments to speak of at least. Saturday we visited a cultural museum outside of town. It was built by missionaries who were interested in cultural preservation for the Sukuma people who form the largest ethnic group around Lake Victoria. The "museum" was really a variety of small buildings all outside which displayed the architecture of the housing structures traditionally used, their main means of sustenance, their symbolic rituals, their tools, etc... generally what you would expect I guess from a cultural tour. It was quite interesting nonetheless and we had Andrew sit on an old Chief's throne adorned with a hat and symbolic sword like object. Somehow I'm not so sure that was exactly what it used to look like...
After the tour we were able to see some traditional dances performed by a local dance group. It was pretty much as you would imagine it - women moving their hips in ways you didn't think possible, men jumping and flying through the air, drumming, bright clothes. They encouraged us to give monetary donations as the show was going on in a basket that rested in the middle of the stage just in front of us. As you were getting up to give, most people would do a bit of dancing of their own as shown to us by our tour guide. Our professors of course thought that was hilarious and ended up pushing a few students up there to engage in a small African dance-off. Thankfully I was sitting in the back row...
The end was definitely the best part though. The local people do a "nyoka" (snake) dance. Out from a box come two huge pythons, at least 8 ft long each. Our ecology professor casually told us that these snakes are actually not poisonous, rather they are just the type that strangle their pray in order to kill it. Nevertheless, that didn't stop two of the girls in the front row from jumping three feet in the air backwards when the snake came flying towards us and hissing. But the donation/dancing scheme continued and as the brought out the third, much larger grand finale snack, one of our students, Lena, decided she should get up and dance then. I could not believe how close she got! I absolutely thought she was a goner when this thing came hissing and rapidly slithering toward her and she started back-tracking on her heels quickly just barely holding her balance. I could just picture it happening - she falls and within seconds a huge python has got his fangs in her abdomen. Luckily she kept her footing and made her way off the stage, and only with some really cool pictures to show for it.
There isn't too much to do in Mwanza at night. It's a much smaller city and there are only a few hotels and restaurants that are really accommodating of foreigners/tourists. We went to one of those on Saturday in the evening, but it really wasn't too eventful. Sunday was free so myself and two of the other girls went on a nice walk for at least a mile down through the local village. We really created quite a stir, the three of us, with entire households getting up and yelling "Karibu" (welcome) and doing lots of pointing. A young man started walking with us and we chatted with him for a bit. I think by the end of the walk he had become something of a celebrity for walking with the wazungu. Beyond the people, the scenery was beautiful. You can see Lake Victoria on the horizon and these amazing rock formations like nothing I can really describe. It was so peaceful and just so quintessentially African-Savannah-like.
This week I just have more class and am spending more time at my NGO. We spent time today with an 8 year old girl who had been sexually assaulted by her uncle and her mother who was trying to figure out what to do with her because her new husband wasn't really interested in taking care of the child from her first marriage. It was really emotional, yet the little girl was just absolutely beautiful and really quite cheerful and happy despite her circumstances. We'll be going back Thursday to see her again and then on Friday to help set up a in-school program the NGO runs to help educate the youth about domestic violence. This NGO does such a fabulous job in this area; clearly there is just a great need for many more like it.
I did have a small incident last night with a frog. I went into the bathroom and what do I see in my toilet but a small frog sitting in the bowel, struggling terribly to get out. My first reaction was of course to run and yell for Andrew. haha He came along with the rest of our group to check out the scene and we rescued the frog and set him free outside. He was actually quite a cute little critter. But I think the real question is, how exactly did that frog get in my toilet....
After the tour we were able to see some traditional dances performed by a local dance group. It was pretty much as you would imagine it - women moving their hips in ways you didn't think possible, men jumping and flying through the air, drumming, bright clothes. They encouraged us to give monetary donations as the show was going on in a basket that rested in the middle of the stage just in front of us. As you were getting up to give, most people would do a bit of dancing of their own as shown to us by our tour guide. Our professors of course thought that was hilarious and ended up pushing a few students up there to engage in a small African dance-off. Thankfully I was sitting in the back row...
The end was definitely the best part though. The local people do a "nyoka" (snake) dance. Out from a box come two huge pythons, at least 8 ft long each. Our ecology professor casually told us that these snakes are actually not poisonous, rather they are just the type that strangle their pray in order to kill it. Nevertheless, that didn't stop two of the girls in the front row from jumping three feet in the air backwards when the snake came flying towards us and hissing. But the donation/dancing scheme continued and as the brought out the third, much larger grand finale snack, one of our students, Lena, decided she should get up and dance then. I could not believe how close she got! I absolutely thought she was a goner when this thing came hissing and rapidly slithering toward her and she started back-tracking on her heels quickly just barely holding her balance. I could just picture it happening - she falls and within seconds a huge python has got his fangs in her abdomen. Luckily she kept her footing and made her way off the stage, and only with some really cool pictures to show for it.
There isn't too much to do in Mwanza at night. It's a much smaller city and there are only a few hotels and restaurants that are really accommodating of foreigners/tourists. We went to one of those on Saturday in the evening, but it really wasn't too eventful. Sunday was free so myself and two of the other girls went on a nice walk for at least a mile down through the local village. We really created quite a stir, the three of us, with entire households getting up and yelling "Karibu" (welcome) and doing lots of pointing. A young man started walking with us and we chatted with him for a bit. I think by the end of the walk he had become something of a celebrity for walking with the wazungu. Beyond the people, the scenery was beautiful. You can see Lake Victoria on the horizon and these amazing rock formations like nothing I can really describe. It was so peaceful and just so quintessentially African-Savannah-like.
This week I just have more class and am spending more time at my NGO. We spent time today with an 8 year old girl who had been sexually assaulted by her uncle and her mother who was trying to figure out what to do with her because her new husband wasn't really interested in taking care of the child from her first marriage. It was really emotional, yet the little girl was just absolutely beautiful and really quite cheerful and happy despite her circumstances. We'll be going back Thursday to see her again and then on Friday to help set up a in-school program the NGO runs to help educate the youth about domestic violence. This NGO does such a fabulous job in this area; clearly there is just a great need for many more like it.
I did have a small incident last night with a frog. I went into the bathroom and what do I see in my toilet but a small frog sitting in the bowel, struggling terribly to get out. My first reaction was of course to run and yell for Andrew. haha He came along with the rest of our group to check out the scene and we rescued the frog and set him free outside. He was actually quite a cute little critter. But I think the real question is, how exactly did that frog get in my toilet....
Friday, July 6, 2007
Getting settled in Mwanza
I think I'm starting to get more into the swing of things at Mwanza. We've been able to go down town a few times now on our own to see the place and visit our NGOs. Kivulini (the NGO I am working with) is really great and I like it a lot so far. I went this morning with the girl I am volunteering with there, Lena, and although there wasn't much for us to do just yet, we got to hear more about it and sit in on one of the legal counseling sessions (something you really wouldn't have happen in the US). The woman who came in this morning was the third of a man's four wives. Their husband died in 2004 and there is an ongoing fight over the inheritance. Apparently, the first wife is trying to take wife III's and wife IV's property. All four women lived in different neighborhoods in their own homes, but were all legally married to this man.
It's obviously quite hard for us, especially me, to imagine an arrangement like this. It is still part of the culture here in TZ for men to have more than one wife and they don't really live together in a polygamous household like Mormons. The women working at the NGO told us that if a man only has one wife, it is pretty often that they are at least having an affair or two. One of the women there, the head lawyer, was married but is now separated from her husband. She explained that he was really, really controlling and told her that she should "leave her rights and laws at work" but to not bring them into their home. She is now living with her two children and seems exceptionally happy to be single again. The other woman was 22 and unmarried. She told us that she doesn't want to marry a Tanzanian man, but rather a foreigner. I think among the very small population of highly educated women in TZ it is quite hard to find a husband who is accepting of that and allows for the independence and freedom most American women might expect in a relationship. Perhaps they are just always seeing the worst of it because of the population of women they are working with who are in abusive relationships, but I would think they may be at least partially right.
Otherwise life is a bit slow here. We have class M-Thr in the morning but have the afternoons to do our volunteering or to just hang out. We've been playing a lot of cards already in the evenings... I have to write a short paper for my class and I am going to be trying to research women's involvement in the TZ independence movement and the Nyerere government (the first president who was in power from independence in 1960 to 1985). I don't know how much material I will be able to find, but I think it will be fun to look into.
The food is actually good here at SAUT. They feed us far too much - we have breakfast, a tea break with snacks, lunch, another snack break, and dinner. The only thing that bothers me is that it is really scheduled and we all have to eat together cafeteria style so there isn't much variety in the scenery/company. Today we did go into town for lunch though and I had a delicious pizza at this restaurant which is run by a local NGO to help with fundraising. The NGO, Kuleana ("caring for each other") works with children's rights and two of our students are also volunteering there. The pizza was actually quite delicious - something I haven't found to be too common in TZ.
A quick commentary that I wanted to add comparing Dar to Mwanza. I think I've stopped talking as much about my surroundings, but the poverty here is quite extreme. The college campus is quite nice and growing quickly (it was only officially started in 1998), but there are many nearby villages that live about as sparsely as you could imagine. But after a while and after getting to know the people you are living with, it doesn't strike you as often. People are happy and they go on living their lives as normal. But if I may expand, Dar is a bit more cosmopolitan than Mwanza and at least has some tourists. I mentioned that little children often yelled out "mzungu" as I walked around in Dar, but here in Mwanza if I go down town I stick out more than you could imagine, I think especially being a young person. SAUT doesn't attract international students, so I have a feeling the only white people here are more often than not missionaries or working for NGOs, etc.. so they are older. TZ adults don't usually yell out things, but they stare in the most direct way possible. I walked up to a stall to just see if they had anything I could snack on while I was walking with Lena (a black American who at least can blend in a tiny bit) and every person there, at least 10 people, just turned and stared. Really it's pretty funny - it's just not something I am used to. People are always pretty intrigued if I speak to them in Swahili and like to ask where I learned, but I feel like I always attract attention. Lena said she felt like she was walking with a celebrity.
On other fronts, we have this weekend off and I really hope we have something interesting to do. We may try to organize a trip to Arusha next weekend if boredom continues. I hate being here and knowing there is so much to see and do but being confined to staying on this campus which is completely secluded from real life and devoid of students because it is their holiday right now. But then again, there is hot running water (usually at least - not this morning) so maybe I shouldn't complain...
Email me with updates on your summers!
It's obviously quite hard for us, especially me, to imagine an arrangement like this. It is still part of the culture here in TZ for men to have more than one wife and they don't really live together in a polygamous household like Mormons. The women working at the NGO told us that if a man only has one wife, it is pretty often that they are at least having an affair or two. One of the women there, the head lawyer, was married but is now separated from her husband. She explained that he was really, really controlling and told her that she should "leave her rights and laws at work" but to not bring them into their home. She is now living with her two children and seems exceptionally happy to be single again. The other woman was 22 and unmarried. She told us that she doesn't want to marry a Tanzanian man, but rather a foreigner. I think among the very small population of highly educated women in TZ it is quite hard to find a husband who is accepting of that and allows for the independence and freedom most American women might expect in a relationship. Perhaps they are just always seeing the worst of it because of the population of women they are working with who are in abusive relationships, but I would think they may be at least partially right.
Otherwise life is a bit slow here. We have class M-Thr in the morning but have the afternoons to do our volunteering or to just hang out. We've been playing a lot of cards already in the evenings... I have to write a short paper for my class and I am going to be trying to research women's involvement in the TZ independence movement and the Nyerere government (the first president who was in power from independence in 1960 to 1985). I don't know how much material I will be able to find, but I think it will be fun to look into.
The food is actually good here at SAUT. They feed us far too much - we have breakfast, a tea break with snacks, lunch, another snack break, and dinner. The only thing that bothers me is that it is really scheduled and we all have to eat together cafeteria style so there isn't much variety in the scenery/company. Today we did go into town for lunch though and I had a delicious pizza at this restaurant which is run by a local NGO to help with fundraising. The NGO, Kuleana ("caring for each other") works with children's rights and two of our students are also volunteering there. The pizza was actually quite delicious - something I haven't found to be too common in TZ.
A quick commentary that I wanted to add comparing Dar to Mwanza. I think I've stopped talking as much about my surroundings, but the poverty here is quite extreme. The college campus is quite nice and growing quickly (it was only officially started in 1998), but there are many nearby villages that live about as sparsely as you could imagine. But after a while and after getting to know the people you are living with, it doesn't strike you as often. People are happy and they go on living their lives as normal. But if I may expand, Dar is a bit more cosmopolitan than Mwanza and at least has some tourists. I mentioned that little children often yelled out "mzungu" as I walked around in Dar, but here in Mwanza if I go down town I stick out more than you could imagine, I think especially being a young person. SAUT doesn't attract international students, so I have a feeling the only white people here are more often than not missionaries or working for NGOs, etc.. so they are older. TZ adults don't usually yell out things, but they stare in the most direct way possible. I walked up to a stall to just see if they had anything I could snack on while I was walking with Lena (a black American who at least can blend in a tiny bit) and every person there, at least 10 people, just turned and stared. Really it's pretty funny - it's just not something I am used to. People are always pretty intrigued if I speak to them in Swahili and like to ask where I learned, but I feel like I always attract attention. Lena said she felt like she was walking with a celebrity.
On other fronts, we have this weekend off and I really hope we have something interesting to do. We may try to organize a trip to Arusha next weekend if boredom continues. I hate being here and knowing there is so much to see and do but being confined to staying on this campus which is completely secluded from real life and devoid of students because it is their holiday right now. But then again, there is hot running water (usually at least - not this morning) so maybe I shouldn't complain...
Email me with updates on your summers!
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Arrival in Mwanza/Happy 4th of July!
Sorry about the delay in posting. We were relocated this past weekend to Mwanza, TZ for the second half of our program and internet access has been so far very difficult to get to.
On Saturday we had our flight out of Dar. I got ready in the morning and actually cried quite a bit as I was leaving. I had become such good friends with the house girl I just couldn't believe how much I would miss her. She was unbelievably hopeful and optimistic and happy despite her circumstances and I can't help but continue to ponder what she will do as she gets older with such a limited education and what prospects she has post-house girl age. After leaving Savei I went out for a nice lunch with my host parents who then dropped me off so we could catch our flight.
We arrived after an 1 1/2 hour flight to Mwanza at about 8pm. We got settled into our new living arrangements here which are located at St. Augustine University of Tanzania (SAUT). Instead of being with host families, we are staying in the dormitories. It's nice to have my own personal space and to have time to myself, but I am also lonely without my family and finding myself missing so much of what they did for me, especially Kalista. I also haven't been speaking Swahili much without them around to talk to so I am afraid about keeping up my skill level. Hopefully that will change.
Sunday was a campus and city tour, generally not too exciting. Mwanza is the second largest city in TZ and is located right on Lake Victoria (which is absolutely huge if you aren't aware and goes for miles), but it really is quite different from Dar. There are no supermarkets and there isn't any of the great development brought about by South Africans that all of us Americans got to enjoy occasionally in Dar.
I am excited about one thing though. We get to work with local NGOs here in Mwanza. I was assigned to a group called Kivulini ("in the shade") which works on women's human rights and empowerment, especially in the area of domestic violence. We visited yesterday and I will be going back this afternoon to start volunteering. We met the woman who runs it and it sounds really great. I'll be sure to talk more about this later.
Otherwise we have different classes here than we did in Dar. I am taking a class called "TZ Civil Society and Politics" and the other half of the Gtown students are taking "Ecology of Lake Victoria and the Savannah." Our class has been really interesting so far and I really like it.
I'd love to talk more about Mwanza but I have to go back to class. I am a bit disappointed because we are a lot more restricted here in our freedom (being on a Catholic campus and with more protective professors) so we haven't done much exploring yet and I am not sure we'll be allowed to. We're all pretty mad about this actually. Hopefully things will change as time moves on.
Will write again soon! Oh and Happy 4th of July!! (we are having a small party tonight so hopefully that will be fun, but I'll definitely be missing the fireworks and good American food!)
On Saturday we had our flight out of Dar. I got ready in the morning and actually cried quite a bit as I was leaving. I had become such good friends with the house girl I just couldn't believe how much I would miss her. She was unbelievably hopeful and optimistic and happy despite her circumstances and I can't help but continue to ponder what she will do as she gets older with such a limited education and what prospects she has post-house girl age. After leaving Savei I went out for a nice lunch with my host parents who then dropped me off so we could catch our flight.
We arrived after an 1 1/2 hour flight to Mwanza at about 8pm. We got settled into our new living arrangements here which are located at St. Augustine University of Tanzania (SAUT). Instead of being with host families, we are staying in the dormitories. It's nice to have my own personal space and to have time to myself, but I am also lonely without my family and finding myself missing so much of what they did for me, especially Kalista. I also haven't been speaking Swahili much without them around to talk to so I am afraid about keeping up my skill level. Hopefully that will change.
Sunday was a campus and city tour, generally not too exciting. Mwanza is the second largest city in TZ and is located right on Lake Victoria (which is absolutely huge if you aren't aware and goes for miles), but it really is quite different from Dar. There are no supermarkets and there isn't any of the great development brought about by South Africans that all of us Americans got to enjoy occasionally in Dar.
I am excited about one thing though. We get to work with local NGOs here in Mwanza. I was assigned to a group called Kivulini ("in the shade") which works on women's human rights and empowerment, especially in the area of domestic violence. We visited yesterday and I will be going back this afternoon to start volunteering. We met the woman who runs it and it sounds really great. I'll be sure to talk more about this later.
Otherwise we have different classes here than we did in Dar. I am taking a class called "TZ Civil Society and Politics" and the other half of the Gtown students are taking "Ecology of Lake Victoria and the Savannah." Our class has been really interesting so far and I really like it.
I'd love to talk more about Mwanza but I have to go back to class. I am a bit disappointed because we are a lot more restricted here in our freedom (being on a Catholic campus and with more protective professors) so we haven't done much exploring yet and I am not sure we'll be allowed to. We're all pretty mad about this actually. Hopefully things will change as time moves on.
Will write again soon! Oh and Happy 4th of July!! (we are having a small party tonight so hopefully that will be fun, but I'll definitely be missing the fireworks and good American food!)
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