I think I'm starting to get more into the swing of things at Mwanza. We've been able to go down town a few times now on our own to see the place and visit our NGOs. Kivulini (the NGO I am working with) is really great and I like it a lot so far. I went this morning with the girl I am volunteering with there, Lena, and although there wasn't much for us to do just yet, we got to hear more about it and sit in on one of the legal counseling sessions (something you really wouldn't have happen in the US). The woman who came in this morning was the third of a man's four wives. Their husband died in 2004 and there is an ongoing fight over the inheritance. Apparently, the first wife is trying to take wife III's and wife IV's property. All four women lived in different neighborhoods in their own homes, but were all legally married to this man.
It's obviously quite hard for us, especially me, to imagine an arrangement like this. It is still part of the culture here in TZ for men to have more than one wife and they don't really live together in a polygamous household like Mormons. The women working at the NGO told us that if a man only has one wife, it is pretty often that they are at least having an affair or two. One of the women there, the head lawyer, was married but is now separated from her husband. She explained that he was really, really controlling and told her that she should "leave her rights and laws at work" but to not bring them into their home. She is now living with her two children and seems exceptionally happy to be single again. The other woman was 22 and unmarried. She told us that she doesn't want to marry a Tanzanian man, but rather a foreigner. I think among the very small population of highly educated women in TZ it is quite hard to find a husband who is accepting of that and allows for the independence and freedom most American women might expect in a relationship. Perhaps they are just always seeing the worst of it because of the population of women they are working with who are in abusive relationships, but I would think they may be at least partially right.
Otherwise life is a bit slow here. We have class M-Thr in the morning but have the afternoons to do our volunteering or to just hang out. We've been playing a lot of cards already in the evenings... I have to write a short paper for my class and I am going to be trying to research women's involvement in the TZ independence movement and the Nyerere government (the first president who was in power from independence in 1960 to 1985). I don't know how much material I will be able to find, but I think it will be fun to look into.
The food is actually good here at SAUT. They feed us far too much - we have breakfast, a tea break with snacks, lunch, another snack break, and dinner. The only thing that bothers me is that it is really scheduled and we all have to eat together cafeteria style so there isn't much variety in the scenery/company. Today we did go into town for lunch though and I had a delicious pizza at this restaurant which is run by a local NGO to help with fundraising. The NGO, Kuleana ("caring for each other") works with children's rights and two of our students are also volunteering there. The pizza was actually quite delicious - something I haven't found to be too common in TZ.
A quick commentary that I wanted to add comparing Dar to Mwanza. I think I've stopped talking as much about my surroundings, but the poverty here is quite extreme. The college campus is quite nice and growing quickly (it was only officially started in 1998), but there are many nearby villages that live about as sparsely as you could imagine. But after a while and after getting to know the people you are living with, it doesn't strike you as often. People are happy and they go on living their lives as normal. But if I may expand, Dar is a bit more cosmopolitan than Mwanza and at least has some tourists. I mentioned that little children often yelled out "mzungu" as I walked around in Dar, but here in Mwanza if I go down town I stick out more than you could imagine, I think especially being a young person. SAUT doesn't attract international students, so I have a feeling the only white people here are more often than not missionaries or working for NGOs, etc.. so they are older. TZ adults don't usually yell out things, but they stare in the most direct way possible. I walked up to a stall to just see if they had anything I could snack on while I was walking with Lena (a black American who at least can blend in a tiny bit) and every person there, at least 10 people, just turned and stared. Really it's pretty funny - it's just not something I am used to. People are always pretty intrigued if I speak to them in Swahili and like to ask where I learned, but I feel like I always attract attention. Lena said she felt like she was walking with a celebrity.
On other fronts, we have this weekend off and I really hope we have something interesting to do. We may try to organize a trip to Arusha next weekend if boredom continues. I hate being here and knowing there is so much to see and do but being confined to staying on this campus which is completely secluded from real life and devoid of students because it is their holiday right now. But then again, there is hot running water (usually at least - not this morning) so maybe I shouldn't complain...
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2 comments:
you have HOT, RUNNING water in Mwanza??? Oh, I'm jealous!! We didn't !!! Don't tell me that you have electricity too! (We were supposed to have it every other day.)
It sounds like they're a whole lot more strict for y'all then they were for us! They aren't letting you take the daladala into the city?
I agree with you about the poverty...but at least in Mwanza people can own a tiny bit of land and cultivate it to grow some food for themselves. The poverty is just so different, of such a different nature, in the city vs Mwanza.
If you get the chance, go on some walks with the Enviro class, climb some Kopjes. There is almost nothing that is more incredible than watching the sunrise or sunset over Lake Victoria from the top of one of the Kopjes.
I hope you're well!!! Enjoy Mwanza, I miss it so much!
Yes there is occasionally pretty-warm running water, although we haven't had that the last two days. I took a nice, icy-cold buck shower last night actually. But it was certainly a great surprise for us upon arrival! The electricity is pretty good, but it's gone out twice in the last week. George mentioned how bad it was in previous years when they were doing the electricity rationing.
We have been taking the daladalas now, but they still always want to know where we're going and what we're doing. Maybe they'll loosen up soon...
I did go on one of the walks the other days but have yet to climb a Kopje. They're so beautiful and that does sound fun, so I'll be sure to ask about it.
Did you ever eat at Yuh Long when you were here? (the chinese restaurant at Rock Beach) We went last night and the food was great! It is right on Lake Victoria and apparently if you go before sunset it is beautiful to watch from there, so that is our next outing I think.
Hope the heat in DC isn't too bad!
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